Today feels very, very familiar, a little like Thanksgiving.
Ramadan is over (the moon told us last night.), and today we celebrate Korité.
Morning. The family communes, sleepy-eyed, on the terrace, where Maam pours each of us heaping portions of chilled lait-caillé and steaming millett.
Women don their pagnes and the men their bubus. Heads were shaved or tressed last night (quick diversion tactics saved my scalp...my fine blond hair tends to react rather wimpily to the braiding process).
I sit with the other teenaged and twenty-something women, peeling and dicing onions, carrots, turnips, and garlic. There are no cutting boards. I dice three onions, a carrot and a turnip in my hand.
I spy a bloodied chunk of paper the size of and shape of several bowling balls wrapped for christmas. Fresh sheep.
Lunch is an overflowing platter of color. Pickles, eggs, bright green spicy peppers, crimson sausages, water chestnuts (to which "Even Cowgirls Get the Blues" (my new favorite book) just paid a lovely tribute.), onions and garlic, the afore-mentioned sheep, and as always, a bed of rice.
Youssour Ndou (famous Senegalese singer) and glass bottles of cool Coca Cola accompany the afternoon. Alia and I feel festive and buy the family cookies from a nearby boutique.
and now... a pause. The world catches its breath and examines its too-full stomach. I'm reminded of the post-Thanksgiving feast time when the family disperses...some to wash dishes, some to take walks, some to fall asleep in their mothers laps, some to sit silently and watch.
(...and some to quickly document the experience.)
Ramadan is over (the moon told us last night.), and today we celebrate Korité.
Morning. The family communes, sleepy-eyed, on the terrace, where Maam pours each of us heaping portions of chilled lait-caillé and steaming millett.
Women don their pagnes and the men their bubus. Heads were shaved or tressed last night (quick diversion tactics saved my scalp...my fine blond hair tends to react rather wimpily to the braiding process).
I sit with the other teenaged and twenty-something women, peeling and dicing onions, carrots, turnips, and garlic. There are no cutting boards. I dice three onions, a carrot and a turnip in my hand.
I spy a bloodied chunk of paper the size of and shape of several bowling balls wrapped for christmas. Fresh sheep.
Lunch is an overflowing platter of color. Pickles, eggs, bright green spicy peppers, crimson sausages, water chestnuts (to which "Even Cowgirls Get the Blues" (my new favorite book) just paid a lovely tribute.), onions and garlic, the afore-mentioned sheep, and as always, a bed of rice.
Youssour Ndou (famous Senegalese singer) and glass bottles of cool Coca Cola accompany the afternoon. Alia and I feel festive and buy the family cookies from a nearby boutique.
and now... a pause. The world catches its breath and examines its too-full stomach. I'm reminded of the post-Thanksgiving feast time when the family disperses...some to wash dishes, some to take walks, some to fall asleep in their mothers laps, some to sit silently and watch.
(...and some to quickly document the experience.)
12 Comments:
My mouth is watering just reading your description of the feast. Speaking of food, I went to the grocery store yesterday for the first time since I've moved in, and am slowly venturing into the exciting world of...cooking. Not gonna lie, it's a challenge. First attempt: chicken and pasta. Once I figured out how to turn the stove on, I successfully prepared the driest chicken and mushiest pasta ever known to man. But I ate it. And I was full. Baby steps.
Love and ravioli,
Alex
P.s. BBC + Meg = only good things.
P.P.S. I think my little string of authorization numbers is in fact the sound I made last night trying to chew the rock-like chicken (RQSNMHKSS).
Hey love!
Just wanted to say hi, that I'm reading, that I envy you the experience.
Thanksgiving is slowly coming on. My British friends want me to cook for them. Pumpkin pie is particularly in demand. They're really impressively excited about the concept.
Anyway, I love you and love hearing about you...
Willa B
"I give up. The whooper enters one's spirit the instant it enters one's senses. It is perfect radiant sky monster and I cannot describe it ."
Shit Oh Dear, I miss you like crazycrazy. Your whooper spirit has entered my senses, and I can feel your radiance all the way back across that wide ocean.
Love always,
Sara
Don't forget about post-Thanksgiving FOOTBALL! :)
Do they have turkeys, chickens, or some kind of exotic poultry there? I've seen a lot about lamb and fish (which sound delicious).
How are meals prepared? Is there a cooking range, or some kind of fireplace grilling system?
How would you say that the average day's caloric intake over there compares to stateside? Sounds like they eat better than we do.
Too many food questions. I must be hungry.
Sweet Meg,
Loved your wake-up call on my b-day morn! What a great gift to have the energetic lilt of you on my line. It's been an amazing b-day weekend...suffice it to say that the Women's Film Fest is simply incredible! The last one today, "As It Is In Heaven" left me/us sobbing in that amazing soul-opened kind of way. Truly, truly incredible. It's nominated for an Academy. Man. Better than Babette's Feast! One of the best films of my life. So...my soul, wide open, blessed by friends, films, two amazing kids, your Dad and the chance to imagine another year of living. I, too, feel sated and complete! Enjoy...and I'll tell you soon of the person I met tonite who lives in Zambia (but loves Senegal best of all!)
Sun, Moon, Stars...xoxoxo
Momma
Alex - my reply is in YOUR blog, you sneaky mynx.
Willa - ditto. Write more in your blog! I'm tweed-deprived (oooh I miss my coat! I miss needing a coat! All in due time.)
Mortsnarg Jellybean - Little do you know, I spent last night discussing the wonder that is YOU with two friends over three cups (always three) of ataaya. I think they love you too now.
Curious MonkeyButt - No no no. While villagers eat very well (lots of whole millett, peanuts, couscous, and fish if you're lucky), Dakar city-life has sucked the nutrients from all foods. The average Senegalese eats butter and white bread for breakfast, then greasy rice and fish (literally drowned in oil) for lunch and dinner. Vegetables are few, and overcooked. Fruit has yet to make an appearance in my house. So no. Diets here are not superb.
Exotic Poultry? Does pheasant count? (I heard one of the other students ate that once...I've eaten chicken a few times.)
In the villages, everything is boiled or steamed. In Dakar, everything is fried in gallons and gallons of palm oil.
Mumsy - so good to talk to you too! When and how can I see that movie (with you, possibly?) Lots of love to my mother as she enters her best year thusfar. xoxo Meg
Meg,
I recently had a similar expierence only it involved all of my boys in the woods and a lot of pork. I have never enjoyed a makeshift barbeque more. We had a day that we knew would be relatively free of trouble and procured a hog. Then we threw ourselves a holiday. As always they (you know THEY as in them; They) the trainers still found a way to insert stress through some negotiations that were neccesary for getting the pig, but mostly they (THEY, them) left us alone.
I will be leaving again early tommorrow, but I will pray, and think about you. And when I return I look forward to learning more about your adventures and experiences.
May your days be filled with joy, hope, and accomplishment,
Nick Hinds
Meg,
It's been some time since I've commented, but I wanted to say hello and send my love. That is all for now ma petite chou chou.
Moih,
Hayley
fried in gallons and gallons of palm oil???
sounds delicious.
Hey Meg-
I'm curious: are people aware of the rioting in France there? And, if so, how are they reacting to it? (If you don't already know this, there's lots of rioting in France because two teenagers of Mauritanian and Tunisian descent were accidentally electrocuted, and it's continued because of the lack of jobs for and discrimination against immigrants)
Love,
Mary
Ahhh...Meg.
It's been a bit since I checked the page, so I missed your last entry. Interesting ideas, certainly. The kind of thing I think about often, albeit through different avenues. I would certainly like to talk to you when you come back. I was going to voice some opinion, but I haven't got the time or necessary clarity.
Much love,
James
Nick, a hog roast! Yes yes! We had a sheep roast on the beach the other day. Quite exciting...our version of 'negotiations' entailed getting an entire sheep roast and its party on to an island via a single parogue... Good luck, as always. Love you.
Hayley: Moih! You ARE hot.
Devon: Ewww.
Mary: See the next comment section.
James: Yeah, big issues, huh? I wish I could say I've had some sort of revelation on that front...not just yet. Let's do talk in the cold month of january, with several friends and cups of cocoa at our side.
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